Who do you give to be different?

by RETRY CD

Who dares to be different?

Me, myself and I:

I really like surfing in comfort.
Myself- likes to be cuddled by soft clothes
And I - I love to dress in loose, casually elegant clothes.

That's my style, Oversize!

I like the mix of feminine and masculine pieces, I like the well-structured androgyny, the multiplicity of volumes.
Sometimes it's a complicated exercise, but the comfort it causes overcomes any effort.

A pair of jeans in the size above, a men's blazer with rolled-up sleeves with a visible lining that makes the difference, well-stitched boots that are so “done” to the foot that they seem to be part of my skeleton, a striped shirt with a tank top underneath, a tie through the trouser loops, the inevitable neckerchief and a hat.

My mother's yarn, the preppy watch, my grandfather's wedding ring, some family “collections”.
This way of dressing is less conventional but it is a comfort and my identity.

I also add some ribbons on my wrist and a backpack or a “bread bag” made with the rest of a wild silk and I finish the Look.
Look in the mirror: an eyeliner +a little bit of blush+ eyelash mascara+ the indispensable lipstick glow, followed by a “sweet” perfume and off you go!

In the soul I bring my parents!

I roam the city attentive to everything I can reach.
I sharpen the look!
And in a notepad I write the ideas that “sprout” as I fill my eyes.
I always take a flavored water and “I pull from my addiction” and let the smoke release stimulating clouds.
I record everything that comes to my mind, sometimes I run over the notes, but I try to absorb everything that I can see.
In the ear, the “samba of blessing”.
This is me!
And as people pass by, I observe and design new outfits and always discover that my city is an eternal box of surprises and inspiration.

The different conjugations come to me and I quickly store them in my brain to do justice to the “Creativity” that is not, at all, watertight. So I leave myself to contemplate…

Leaving a “metro” at rush hour is one of the most diverse landscapes of the hustle and bustle with which people travel. Elegant or merely “uniformed” with their work clothes are always an asset. Each one has their own way, their way of wearing, of building their costume as well as their way of letting the clothes flow.
And so, looking, I build new images.
It is very gratifying to see the panoply of colors and combinations that, in everything or in nothing, are similar, but in nothing are the same. And clothing has only one purpose, to cover the body and present itself according to social rules.

And that's how oversize fashion comes to mind.
In fact, this trend is not for everyone. It takes style, charisma and mental structure to know how to “get out of the box”.
But who doesn't like to see a men's blazer, well structured with shorts or a skirt? All that blasé air so interestingly casual. A sweater that almost covers the mini-skirt, but doesn't.
The short but wide shirt with tailored trousers, with tweezers and ankle fold…..and so on

I'm going to go back in history a bit and talk about an iconic and timeless piece that are pants.
Pants are the most worn garment across the world.
In France, since the French Revolution, women have been fighting for the right to wear pants without any restrictions, this because, amazingly, anyone who wanted to wear them would have to ask the Police for permission. Yes it is true!
The French only gained the freedom and authorization to use them in 2003.
Long pants only in very special cases such as riding a horse or riding a bicycle.

Archaeological findings lead us to believe that in Persia, in the 6th century BC, they also already existed, but the truth is that trousers have always been considered an exclusively male item. However, there are always those who break the rules and do not surrender to customs.

With the Industrial Revolution and then with the 1st World War and with men on the “front of battle”, women began to enter the job market and clothes had to be practical, simple, made of cheap and durable fabrics. Extravagant clothing was neither good nor suitable for a wartime setting.

Thus, women began to claim the use of trousers not only for comfort but also for discretion. Men began to have to work in factories and the usual work in the field was left to many women. It was necessary to put bread on the table and not neglect agriculture.
Others without great alternatives went to factories where, by regulation, freedom of movement or decorum, they began to wear overalls or trousers. But even so, there was still a big stigma against their use and it was very difficult to overcome. Women who were highly criticized by society, who thought they were violating good customs, defying the laws of decency and masculinizing their feminine attire, were persecuted because this bothered many people.

One of the driving forces behind the use of trousers by women was the bicycle. Some doctors even believed that women who rode a bicycle could become sterile. As a result of the desire and need to use the bicycle to move around more easily, as cities were getting bigger and more industrialized, they needed to transport themselves to their new jobs and the bicycle was their means of transport. Women also managed to free themselves from the clothes that suffocated them and ventured to use, at first, trousers under their skirts but it hindered their movements. As for the corsets that crushed their bodies, they were replaced by lighter pieces and looser fabrics.

And with all this effervescence, they also began to circulate more in public spaces, to go further and better discover the city where they lived. They got together with other women, if only for socializing or fun.
Physical exercise was another great advantage of riding a bike, so pants were playing a key role. In addition, they contributed to an innocent and fruitful communion between men and women who hit the road together, pedaling happily making their movements poetry.

With the industrial revolution there was, inevitably, a cultural change from which visionaries such as the stylist Paul Poiret emerged. This was considered responsible for the modernist silhouette of women in the 1920s, who freed her from corsets and petticoats and dressed them in fluid, light, colorful fabrics….
But Poiret didn't care about shapes, he cared about innovation, fantasy and difference. He liked to impress, which also led him to create the famous limp skirt that caused major accidents since women couldn't even climb to such a height. its lack of width at the ankles.

The story also says that it was by his hand that women wore pants (the Bloomer or Harem that were models wide as a balloon).
Poiret with all his exuberance was still considered the creator of boho chic (this even before the 1st world war). For all this he was considered the most important creator of his time. He was also a precursor of "lifestyling". However, all these revolutionary works in a period of war lost their meaning and that was when Chanel, who was in the right place, saw the opportunity beckoning to her and knew how to take advantage of it.

Chanel was more concerned with women's comfort and, in addition to freeing them from volume, it also freed them from weight, as it began to use fabrics that until then had never been used in women's fashion. The war had deserted warehouses of luxury fabrics and, with their high prices, Chanel, seen by her fellow stylists as “the girly head”, lightened her feminine curves and started using fabrics like jersey.
Chanel was one of the first women to wear tailor-made trousers as well as sweatshirts made from Jersey (a more economical fabric and until then used almost exclusively in men's underwear). and to revolutionize the fashion of that time, perpetuating itself until today.

Next comes the Italian Elsa Schiaparelli, a stylist who also enjoyed great success. Owner of an unsurpassed creativity, what made her stand out the most was that she began to develop models for the working classes, simple clothes, of good quality and very elegant.

Thus, in the 1930's, the use of trousers by women was practically instituted and in the 1940's, still due to the absence of men deployed for the 2nd World War, women took over jobs that until then belonged only to men and trousers gained space in their lives, becoming essential pieces of utility. The pants and their comfort and usefulness already settled for them as if “by decree”.

In the post-war period, if on the one hand creative minds were boiling, on the other there was a lack of raw material and society was still rebuilding itself. Those were difficult years for Fashion.


Then came the 60s, where women's pants were the “must” of fashion.
YSL brilliantly exceeds itself by creating the iconic tuxedo and pants set that empowers the female figure with immense charm and without losing femininity.

Until in the 70s Unisex fashion took shape and the streets were filled with women with their pants that brought them immense freedom and a “je ne sais quoi” of rebelliousness at the same time that the incredible “at ease” they felt became very nice and irreplaceable.
Jeans, LEVI STRAUSS, which have been around here since 1873 always at the service of work, have reappeared with a new style and have never stopped going out of fashion, on the contrary, they are reborn year after year always in all seasons recreated by various stylists who interpret them in a variety of ways.
Tailored trousers also earn their place on the podium of good taste.

And thus women managed to assert themselves in society with inexorable freedom, moving their hips with delicacy and sensuality, always prioritizing comfort.

And so, I return to the oversize style that is presented and distinguished by the discrepancies in sizes and cuts but gained supreme relevance and was distinguished and elevated to an amazing look whether to go to work or to go to a sunset. Despite being connected with baggy clothes, it manages to maintain elegance and display its beauty without being "corset" from head to toe.
The only concern to have with this style is the proportions and composition of the look. You have to look for balance so that it's perfect and it doesn't look like you opened the closet and took it at random but didn't win. If you look in the mirror and notice that the top part is fuller, use less on the bottom part and vice versa.

Tips:

- Oversize white shirt, which you can certainly find in dad's closet, is one of the most versatile pieces and therefore essential in this style:

- Inside some “boyfriend” jeans with a knot on the waistband, it makes for a simple and comfortable look;

- On the outside, open like a wind breaker, leggings and a t-shirt with sneakers, creates a relaxed but refined look,

- On the outside but with another shirt underneath (this time it will have to be a tighter shirt) and it makes an incredible look to which you add tighter pants and to complete choose some loafers or heels and you will see how sophisticated it looks,

- Over a skirt, or shorts with a drawstring or tie on the belt or even loose, it gives you a sporty and careful look;

- Over a dress, with a knot at the waist, it produces a more classic look;

- And for the most fashionable and daring girls, wear it as a skirt. Wear it at the waist, fasten the buttons as far as you feel comfortable, and knot or tie the sleeves. Use with a tank top. It's a lot of fun and raises a lot of curiosity.

- Boyfriend, baggy or mumfit jeans are extraordinarily comfortable and easy to coordinate with any top piece, whether fitted or loose. It's all a matter of choice and proportions. A tie threaded through the loops, a scarf or a cord will enhance the look, giving it a more glamorous look.

- Cashmere or cotton sweater - fundamental in any wardrobe and being wider than usual it is also a distinctive and excellent piece especially on cooler days. Take it with you, even if it is tied around your neck.

- Denim jacket another essential piece that never lets you down.Use and abuse it. It goes with absolutely everything and with well-chosen accessories it can make your look unforgettable.

- Dad's blazer-it's a less easy piece to match since the proportion has to be right. But with a mini skirt you don't even notice, or a pair of shorts, you can create an absolutely stunning and sensual look. Try the blazer with a huge silk scarf crossed at the front and fastened at the back or even loose but inside the blazer and even the mirror whistles at you. If the blazer is tailored, it will probably have better finishes and you can take advantage of the lining of the sleeves by folding them. It's one of the looks that I like the most. It's different, comfortable, very intimate and emblematic.

- Oversize T-shirt can't be missing. It is a basic piece but it is the solution to many doubts. Simple and super useful, it fits well in almost any circumstance. It's a matter of holding it tighter or giving it freedom and letting go.

- As for accessories, they are absolutely necessary to successfully complete any costume (as Iris Apfel says “More is more and less is bore”)

Fashion is a trend, but there is no decree-law that obliges you to follow it.

Fashion is made by you and with your freedom of choice.

And whoever looks and disdains, azarito!

I will end by suggesting that whatever your style, invest in it, use it and pamper yourself.

Maria Pia


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